Arriving at the wind swept coastal town of Rausu, we had emerged from the shrouded overland traverse across Mount Rausu on the Shiretoko Peninsula and stumbled upon a small community that faces the Kurile islands. We drove up to the Rausu Kunashiri Observatory Tower and confronted an exhibition that reflected the remorseful regret of kinship, cultural censorship and loss of land and sovereignty. Within eye-sight of the Tower, the Kunashir Island, which was ceded to Russia after 1945, looms in the distance as a reminder of what is near and yet unreachable.

We passed a few shuttered shops before driving up to the advertised ramen shop along a lonely street on the hillside parallel to the sea. Up at the Observatory Tower, high on the hills, we could see the whale-watching ships leave the port, noisy with the floating voices of boarding travelers eager for another magical moment off the coast of this well-deserved UNESCO Heritage national park.

The noodle shop, by contrast, seemed isolated and shuttered. Down from the breezy vantage point, it suddenly seemed too lonely a place, and we were on the verge of driving off when our elderly proprietress emerged from a window off the upstairs landing to declare her availability for a couple of eager customers.

And so we entered into her quiet world, as she un-shuttered, lit up the dim spotless interior, fired up her pots and prepared the only type of miso-based noodles that were on offer. We waited quietly for her service, and examined some of the beautiful but worn photos, cartoons and portraits of yester-years, not quite daring to ask if the handsome man in a portrait was a kin, and if so, where was he ….

After a lovely meal, marred only by the intrusions of my camera, we exchange pleasantries, returned our bowls neatly across the counter as befitting the etiquette of the moment, and set off on our way.

“Be careful of the undercover patrol cars – they will stop you for speeding,” she gestured, with a twinkle in her eyes. Not quite alone after all.

Lumix G85; Lumix 12-60 mm lens. August 2018.