Our party spent a day on the mighty Tonle Sap, this seasonal lake that swells and shrinks with the seasons and fed by rainfall from the upper reaches of the Mekong River delta. As we partake of the made-for-tourist life, we traverse the different facets that make this an enduring livelihood, from the loud noisy rotors of young men in haste, to the little boy who massages on board for a handsome tip (we gave in USDs), to the child who poses for a hand-out, and the war amputees and ex-soldiers who now perform in restrained dignity, quiet gratitude and overwhelming resilience. We passed leisure riverboat awaiting the next big convention in Siem Reap, and the neat but empty Catholic Church boat awaiting the Lord’s Day.